One, Two, Sri
He's here!
In the same time it takes to travel between NYC and Miami, we were able to arrive on the island of Sri Lanka. And with just enough energy to redistribute clothing between luggage one day after his long trek from the States, my partner in crime doubled back to the airport to enjoy an extended Eid al-Fitr (end of Ramadan) break with me. After three months apart, I thought an excursion away from both our 'normal' lives would do us some good. Given the surprisingly close proximity and amazingly affordable packages I bid on through Travel Triangle, we were able to make the 4-city, 5-day tour happen.
We were often mistaken for Arabs, not due to any of our actions or attire, but most likely the timing of our vacation. As you can imagine, most westerners travel to warm climates during their winter. I was grateful to borrow some of the unwarranted respect for those few moments until we could not respond in kind to Arabic greetings. But upon learning our true origin, the people of Sri Lanka were equally intrigued, and my subconscious embarrassment for our current administration temporarily faded as we gushed over how beautiful a country we were visiting.
We flew into Colombo at Tuesday 6am and were met with our driver, Ravi from Udani Holidays. Ravi makes a trip around the island a few times a month, so Google maps were not needed once. I wonder who gets the new guy starting out. I'm grateful I didn't, but you know, I still wonder.
DAY 1
Our first stop: Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. This is nothing like a zoo. These elephants live on 25 acres of coconut property with more than enough room to graze, rest and socialize. And in what looked like an organized stampede, they are walked down to the nearby river twice daily to bathe and cool off from the sun. There is a lot of human interaction, but it really did seem like they were able to enjoy their regimented lives without the cage. Watching the "babies" get fed is also a treat the locals get to share with tourists at various points in the day, whose entry fees ($20/foreigner) ensure the perpetuity of the conservation services for the otherwise at-risk animals.
On the way to Dambulla, we ordered way too much for our first meal. Two grilled fish and two chicken biryani for the table. All this was $35 in total to feed the three of us, which is a steal, but it was such a shame that we didn't have the portion sizes down yet and had to leave without finishing it all. My experience has been that when they ask if you'd like rice or sauce with your meal, they are not talking about a side. Be clear about what you're expecting and what it is that you're ordering. Also, don't know how notable this statue pointing us to our table is in Sri Lanka, but needless to say, we were taken aback by his Black Sambo likeness. What would be an omen to keep it moving in the American Dixie was a small reminder of how dark skin is viewed (ridiculed) around the world.
In Dambulla, we visited the famous Rock Temple which houses some of the most unique paintings and 150 statues of Buddha. This is a dual Islamic-Hindu temple, as royalty of Muslim faith often married women who practiced Hindu, and as a result built dwellings for the worship of both. Ahead of their time.
For as many signs requesting respect for the religion, not to take pictures inside the caves or sit on the barriers to the statues, there were just as many European guests disregarding them. That is probably why our $10 cover charge somehow did not cover the mandatory fee once we reached the top of this mountain, for some local men to "watch" our shoes prior to our entering the temples. Disrespect a culture and get got either coming or going.
For our first night, we stayed in the 5-star Jetwing Lake Hotel. It was so amazing, I had to write a Trip Advisor review. Just. I can't. I immediately wanted to stay there for the rest of the week. A downside to a pre-determined schedule.
DAY 2
"Ummm, I see where you were going with this. However..." the lost files. Y'all think I always look put together. You don't see the fits I try that match on the bed, in-store, or in my head that fail miserably IRL. Exhibit A:
I left the sheer beige leotard with neon trim for another day. Or another 80's theme party. Please someone invite me so I can redeem this $5 impulse buy.
After a delicious spread at breakfast, we drove about 40 minutes to Sigiriya (Lion's Rock). This city is a bit out of the way, much more north than the others on the map. But after reading reviews, it seemed apparent that we'd kick ourselves to visit the island and not climb this monstrous monument for $30. So while it added several more hours of car transport to the agenda, we did that. Best experience of the week.
More daunting from afar than during the actual climb, the views from the top were breathtaking. But isn't that the same with any overwhelming hurdle we face? You sike yourself out before the first attempt to tackle, and once you begin you wonder what ever the big deal was? It's never good to compare your pace, path or plan with others. Some people took breaks at odd points, others took heed for us to brace ourselves for wind. This is a master level stairmaster and we're in workout gear. Meanwhile Ravi meets us half-way and continues to the apex of the citadel wearing a polo, slacks and loafers. Who does that?? 10 points to Gryffindor.
Experience the 200 meter climb with us.
On the way to the last royal capital of Sri Lankan kings, we visited Isiwara Ayurvedic Village in agricultural zone, Matale. Tea, vegetables, rubber and spices are all cultivated here. We learned about how at least 40 spices are made including each of their therapeutic value. I believe that the study of medicine has brought about a multitude of advancements in healthcare, but also do not shun the traditional principles of dietary therapy, exercise and herbal fortitude. This was a great reminder of the importance of preventative care.
I didn't know batiking came from Sri Lanka. Ravi pulled into a batik factory for us to see the process of dying fabric around wax to create cloth designs. We witnessed all which was done by hand. The artist drawing directly on fabric with ruler and pen; the women filling in melted wax on said designs and dying with colors at various stages; the expert curing the waxed fabric and boiling off the wax; the specialist recovering the old wax for reuse. New appreciation for the style.
For what whatever reason, we were running behind. I'm giving Ravi the benefit of the doubt, because we were slated to see a cultural show that evening. Apparently there are four shows at various locations around Kandy, and perhaps we came late to one in a different area than he had originally planned for us. Gotta be. Because we paid the full amount ($7 each) to arrive in the middle of a 10 part program by Mallawarchch, and immediately knew we had overpaid by 6. Guess we made a donation of love today, fam. If you have ever attended children's programming at a school whose music instructor had just quit and the gym teacher had taken over for the last three weeks...or watched a group perform on the Apollo who spent more time on their costumes than their actual talent...you know how we felt. There was one great performer out of 20: the disc balancer. And these scallywags had the nerve to ask for tips at the end. Ask me for the video :x
This country and its people are gorgeous. I love historical, cultural, and musical entertainment. This was something.else. I refuse to believe that the Y.M.B.A. Hall in Ampitiya is the standard. Just please, go see this show somewhere else. My face says it all.
Following that confusion and hilarity, we checked into Earl's Regent Hotel. Another slam dunk. Amazing staff, welcome, accommodations, food, entertainment, spa, scenery. The manager looked so pleased to share that we were his first American guests since he started not too long ago. I couldn't help but make our neighbors chuckle while singing along to cheesy renditions of "Lady in Red" and "Everything I Do, I Do It For You" played live on the sax during our delicious dinner buffet. I don't know why they are 30 years behind. But avocado mousse for dessert anyone? Before calling it a night, we took advantage of the spa with some nice massages to work out our sore Sigiriya hamstrings.
Day 3
We got to eat breakfast on the patio in front of some amazing green garden lusciousness that was harder to see the evening prior. Would definitely come back here, next time if for nothing else but to swim.
On today's agenda, a tea factory and plantation. There are so many we lost count along the way up the mountains to Nuwara Eliya. This is the main source of pure Ceylon tea. We learned how tea is processed and graded for international markets. They made black tea at this particular location, which comes from the same leaves as green tea. But the former is dried by machine and fermented in the sun from which it gets its dark color, while the latter is not. And white tea is taken only from the tips of the plants, not the whole leaf, which makes the picking more tedious, rare and more expensive. The grades connote strength/caffeine and quality, with larger leaf pieces commanding higher prices than what is put into tea bags (what they not-so-fondly refer to as 'dust'). Surprised to find out that all the high quality tea is shipped out and sold to foreign countries and the locals are given what's left. Ain't that a B.
Tea and waterfalls lend to such a fresh atmosphere. We stopped at several of them to take pictures and even got out to play in Ramboda Falls. The car ride makes me very sleepy, but the stops are all wonderful.
So far, temperatures have been in the 80's. The city of Nuwara Eliya is in the mountains, however, and as we got closer, the climate got markedly cooler. When we finally reached, we started seeing people in coats and boots around Gregory Lake. Really, July? I suppose it's like Colorado. Nothing a scarf and a little hot lentil soup can't fix. Just enough pick-me-up for a visit to Seetha Amman temple, Sri Rama Jayam.
The story says this is where Mother Sita was held captive by Ravana who had kidnapped her & brought her to Sri Lanka from India. Lord Hanumana came to rescue her, but Mother Sita didn't go back with him, as she was waiting for her husband, Lord Rama, to find her. Mother Sita gave her ornaments to Hanumana as a proof to show to Rama that he actually met her. The holes in the ground are to be from the footsteps of Hanumana. The most devout followers are said to drink from the water that currently quells in them.
This night's stay was less luxurious than the first two, but its old fashioned feel looked aligned with the rest of the city. The grounds were beautiful, staff was lovely, but the room left much to be desired at Jetwing St. Andrews. It was as if we visited someone's grandma's house in the same room since her now-50 year old daughter lived there. Quaint and feminine. The amazing food in their restaurant made up for the spotty wi-fi. No cohesion with the overall Jetwing brand.
DAY 4
We pass St. Clair Devon Waterfall on our way back down the mountain to Ravi's hometown, Bentota. It's a long drive and we have to remind him to make stops for food. He's very gracious and we always invite him in, but I don't know if he is just in the zone or trying to be polite.
We make it to a sea turtle hatchery in Kosgoda and I fall in love. Apparently the other animals on the island feed on turtle eggs/hatchlings and put their species in danger. Several conservatories have popped up to aid their survival, and allow visitors to check on their progress in the meantime. Feel slow that I didn't put together that turtle frames popular on glasses actually used to come from people killing turtles for their shells as accessories. Was nice to see organizations caring for them, releasing them to the ocean and safely hatching their eggs for survival. Albino, injured, orphaned...they all have a home here.
And now off to one of my other favorites of the week, the Madu River Safari. We were out on the water for a couple hours for $30 per person. Worth it. It was nice to stretch out in the sun following the cold in Nuwara Eliya. We learned more about the cultivation of cinnamon from locals living near the river, and got the dead skin eaten off our feet with fish therapy. Yes, you too can get your toes sucked in Sri Lanka if you so choose.
So it's super weird and uncomfortable at first, but I was all in for the experience of a maritime pedicure. Screaming ensued. My other half was otherwise unconvinced. I'm sure he gained some extra muscle strength by keeping his legs hovering over the pool for at least thirty minutes. The best time.
We ate as the sun set on Amal Villa Restaurant. I can see why Bentota is known for its beaches and seafood because the fresh red snapper and lobster we picked out were delectable.
We checked into Cinnamon Bey Hotel at night. This five star beauty is a picturesque dream. We definitely did not get to enjoy the property as much as I would have liked, but I would come back a thousand times.
DAY 5
On our final day, we toured through Colombo, stopped at some local stores for fabric (always), and slowly made our way to the airport. Ravi made everything safe, entertaining, and educational. Will miss the people of Sri Lanka.
So much to see and do on this island. I'm glad I got to experience so many different parts of it. When I return, I'll probably focus on one or two cities, like Bentota and Kandy, for their tropical nature, and not the whole Sri. Grateful for it all. I'm up for the adventure, but sometimes its just as nice to sit still and just be.
