knock it off

 

Q: How do you feel about knock offs? I want a really nice bag for every day use, but the great designer ones are over $10K! Have you been to Chinatown? Do you think people can tell?
-ANON

A: So this is a more complex answer than just 'do I think they look close to the real thing or not'. I definitely don't want you caught out there wit no Frada, Guci, Tom Fort, Nolex. Regardless of brand name, I would stack my chips and get a quality original that I can comfortably afford. Here's why.

There are levels to what people consider a "knock-off" product. Much inspiration in the industry stems from the minds in top fashion houses and trickles down to the street. But let's not pretend that it doesn't also work in the opposite direction.

There is a difference between:

• a design element (sleeve type, skirt length, pant fit, top stitching, bag size) that has yet again become trendy and takes over seasonal product mixes across all levels of retailing
• an identifiable piece (design+form+style+fit+color) whose likeness is copied and then sold un- or re-branded 
• an identifiable branded piece that is replicated with the intent to mislead a buyer or onlooker as to its true source

Fast fashion is making the runway-to-mainstream conversion faster than ever. Although sometimes an indirect translation from high street, there are ethical implications even here. Luxury fashion brands are able to command a pretty penny due to many factors, the first of which is quality. Yes, price is also used as a tool to manage brand perception and market positioning. But if quality were not there, discerning consumers would not stay for long. That said, a big piece of their cost structure is labor. It takes many, many crafts(wo)men and artistsans to produce designer goods.  

Conversely, (as I'm sure you've seen several times over in the news), some fast fashion companies have come under fire for the conditions of their workforce. To get those affordable looks on shelf before a trend runs out, clothes are often manufactured in SE Asia under lax labor laws. 

For black and grey market products, which cost major fashion brands billions of dollars in legal fees and lost revenue to chase down every year, situations are usually worse. Not only do dupe-factories exist, there are also individuals who infiltrate the manufacturing sites of real designer production to steal patterns, branded hardware and shipments of finished products for global, untracked distribution. That is why you never know what you're getting from a street market vendor claiming authenticity. Many times they are not, and it looks really bad. Those that know the details to look for by brand will know. And it will look tacky. But sometimes, you are actually getting the almost-real deal. Except you didn't pay the piper to get it, and the piper is missing his due.

Don't you want your hard-earned dollars to support the actual makers of the art you adore? To enable them to continue? We all have our vices, and I would much prefer to get a new accessory than eat at a steakhouse. But are you willing to eat maggi/ramen for two months just so you can sport a Versacci? -__- You may not feel that one person buying a black market item here or there can affect the supply chain as a whole, but when the problem is exacerbated on a global level, some houses find that their popularity exceeds profitability. Creation becomes unsustainable. The courts are struggling to determine what constitutes plagiarism or a breach of intellectual property within fashion. Who originates, owns, and profits from an idea are not often one in the same. This is a thorn in the side of a growing digital space. 

Tbh, it didn't use to bother me. After learning a bit more of these intricacies, my views have changed over time. I keep my aspirational brands just there. As inspiration for creativity and talent, with admiration for artistry that deserves to be valued. It's not only about how something looks. Just like your food, research the brands you love and explore their operational practices. How are employees and suppliers treated? Do they have ethical and sustainable sourcing initiatives?

If you really love a particular brand that seems currently out of reach, there is no shame in visiting the outlet malls or waiting for a trunk/sample sale! Flash sale sites have amazing limited edition deals. Learn when there are promotional offers throughout the year and follow them. And remember that employees have discounts. Do you have any friends in the industry?

I like to support originality, whether local or international, well-known or obscure. If a brand doesn't represent you, why are you representing it? Let it weigh on your conscience and decide for yourself where you draw the line.

You get what you pay for.